Friday, 4 July 2014

My new tailored pants - inset pocket sewing tutorial

With all the current trends heading the way of geometric patterns, I was a little concerned my new floral pants were too slow off the sewing table to be relevant. I've had this piece of fabric in the stash for so long I can't remember where it came from! Time to make some new work threads.

I used a simple gathered into the waist band style pattern , but changed it slightly by concentrating the gathers into where the darts would normally be sewn.

I put an invisible zip in the centre back and inset pockets into each side seam.

I'm rocking these pants with a Glasson's merino top, Loobie's Story fur vest and vintage basket weave shoes.

Here's the sewing tutorial!

I'm assuming you have cut our your pattern pieces.

Place the pocket bag against the front panel side seam and sew a 1.5cm x 13cm 'frame' for the pocket opening. 
 Cut a notch into the corner of the frame. Then turn all the seams to the right side to form the pocket opening.

I overlocked a small section of the front panel side seam first.
Under-stitch the pocket bag to the seam, sewing only as far as the edges of the frame.
Ensure the sides of the pocket opening are turned out as per the photo and pin then. Iron flat. 
Place the other half of the pocket bag over the sewn-in one and pin the bag only into place.

Sew around the pocket bag. 

Overlock or zig-zag the raw edges of the bag.

Repeat the process for the other side of the pants. 
Match the front panels together and sew the centre front seam. Overlock the centre fronts together.

Overlock the centre back seams separately, then sew an invisable zip into the centre back seam.

Match the front and back panels at the side seam and pin into place.

Take care to pin the front panel pocket opening out of the way so you don't sew the pocket shut.

Match and pin the inside leg seams. 

Sew down the side seams; then sew the inside leg seams.

Now try the pants on to check the sizing!
Unless I have made the pattern before, I also always have to alter the sizing. It takes a little time but is well worth it for getting the required look and fit.

Once your happy with the fit and any alterations made, overlock or zig zag the seams.
 Using the longest stitch your machine will do, sew two lines of stitching around the waist. One is 1 cm from the raw edge, the other is 2 cm. This gives the most even gathers once the 1.5 cm seam is sewn. 

Once sewn, pull the thread from one side of the fabric only to form the gathers. Once even, push the gather into groups in the centre of each front and back panel.
Fuse the waist band with iron-on interfacing. 

The waist on these pants was a little too high, so I moved the band down by a cm. Leave a 1.5cm overlap on the right end of the band and 3 to 4cm on the left end. This will form the button overlap.

Pin into place then sew right around.
Once sewn, press the seam into place. 
At each end of the band, fold the zip out of the way, then fold the band right sides together, matching all the raw edges. 

Pin in place.

On the right hand side, sew across the end of the band close to the zip. 
On the left hand side, fold the zip out of the way, then sew as shown in the picture to form the button tab. Be careful not to sew into the zip. 

Clip the corner seam, then turn in the right way.
Fold the band in half longways and measure to ensure it's even all the way around. 

Check that the inside edge of the band over-laps the stitched edge by approximately 1.5cm.

Press and pin into place.

I placed the waist band pattern against the selvage edge of the fabric, so did not need to overlock the edge before sewing.

 Now 'stitch in the ditch' around the outside of the band. The stitch is positioned in the ditch formed by the join in the fabrics.

This sews the inside edges of the band to the pants and forms the waistband. 

Now overlock the hem, turn it up, pin, press and sew into place. 

Sew a button hole into the button table and attach a button. Give the pants a good press and they are all done and ready to wear.

There is nothing like sharing one's space with a little crafter (and all her stash). 
Happy sewing. 

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