Tutorial - Sewing in an exposed metal zip

I'm loving the continued trend for exposed zips, almost as much as the use of plaid and checks in this season's latest offerings. Here is a tutorial for an exposed zip I used in this woollen winter skirt. 

Start by assembling the skirt in the usual way: darts stitched in place, centre back seam stitched up leaving a gap for the zip, gap left for the kick pleat and overlocking done. 

Press the centre back seam open and the seams in the zip opening back by 1.5cm.

Turn the skirt to the right side. 

Place the right side of the zip against the right side of the skirt at the base of the zip opening. 

Sew across the bottom of the zip, leaving enough room for the zip to be folded back against the zip opening to hide the raw ends.

Fold the zip over against the right side of the skirt. 

Position the folded edge of the skirt against the sides of the zip as shown. Don't let the zip get too close to the skirt edge of it will snag on the woollen fabric.  

 Pin the zip in place. 

Change the sewing machine foot to a zipper attachment. 

Starting from the bottom of the zip, sew up each side as shown. 

Sewing from the bottom of each side ensures the fabric stays straight and is not distorted by the pressure of the foot sewing in up one side and down the other. 

And the zip is done. 

From here I sewed the pleats and pockets into the front (patch pockets are just the thing this season), sewed the side seams and kick pleat, then attached the waist band, button hole etc. 

A quick hand stitch of the hem and all is done. 


Happy sewing!